Where Muscle Power Rules

Can you imagine a place where there are no cars, trucks, motorcycles or even battery powered golf carts?  Maybe you can in an out-of-the-way wilderness but how about in a bustling tourist destination?

Well there is such a place and it's Mackinac Island, Michigan. Keep in mind that Michigan is where place names trace their origins either to the Native Americans or French so there are hardly any names that are pronounced the way they look.  It's pronounced Mackinaw.

Mackinac Island is located just east of the straits between Lake Michigan and Lake Huron, where the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and the lower portion almost meet.  The "Big Mac,", the Mackinac Bridge connects the two land masses.  On the north end of the bridge is St. Ignace, pronounced, believe it or not, as it's spelled.  On the southern end is Mackinaw City..., no it's not a typo, the city's name is spelled different from the straits, the bridge or the island.

Mackinac Bridge

Before we get to the meat of this story, the island, let's talk about the bridge.  Mackinac Bridge is the 5th longest suspension bridge in the world with the suspension portion of the bridge at over 8,600 feet in length with the overall bridge length of over 5 miles.  The roadbed is 199 feet above the water at the mid of the span.  There are fours lanes of traffic on the bridge the outer two in each direction is asphalt with the inner two steel grates, the kind that seem to take control of your car!  Maximum speed for cars is 45 and trucks 25.  High winds result in a lower speed limit.

Since this is the only connection between the land for hundreds of miles, it is a very important bridge.  Drivers who are uncomfortable driving across the bridge can have the Bridge Authority supply a driver to get across the bridge!  There is no charge for this service.  Bicyclists, pedestrians and snow-mobilers can pay to be taken across the bridge.

Now back to our story.

To get to Mackinac Island one must take ferry, private boat or private plane.  Of course a ferry is the most popular option.  Ferries travel from both St. Ignace or Mackinaw City, many times daily,for most months until the ice prevents them from making the trip. From there, a tourist can see the sights of the island on foot, via bicycle, there are many places  to rent one, horse back or horse drawn carriage. The island is small, only 8-miles around the perimeter so most of the sights are well within walking distance.

What interested me is not how people moved but how goods moved: luggage of the guests in one of the islands many hotels, deliveries to the stores and restaurants and, hay for the horses! All done by horse drawn wagons or bicycle!

Freight delvery from the ferry to its destination

A visitor's luggage being transported to their hotel

There are reported to be about 500 year-round residents of the island.  Children are educated in its one school which houses grades K through 12.  As you can see, there are no buses!

Island school

There are many hotels if one wishes to stay on the island.  The Grand Hotel is perhaps the most famous and popular.  I wanted to spend the night there until I found that the cheapest room they have, even in the off season, is $250 per person per night!  To dine there, gentlemen must wear coat and tie!  There is even a fee to visit the lobby of the hotel!!

Shore line on the south west side of the island

House on Main Street

History buffs will find Mackinac Island very interesting in that it was first inhabited prior to 1000 AD by Native Americans.  The French were the first Europeans to visit the island in 1670.  There is Fort Mackinac that served various armies from 1790 to 1895.  One can also learn of the importance of the island in early American fur trading.

Fort Mackinac

This house dates to 1790.

As I looked down Main Street,, I couldn't help but equate the island to Disney World.  All the building were extremely well maintained, the street clear (mostly) of traffic and everything was clean.  In another sense, it was like a visit through a time machine to a time when the "horseless carriage" didn't exist.

View down Main Street

I must point out that pedestrians who mistakenly walked in the street were quickly chastised by the drivers of the wagons and carriages who "encouraged " them is loud voices to use the sidewalks!

Lilac Tree Hotel

The other main difference between Mackinac Island streets and Disney World or most other public streets for that matter, is the pollution. That many horses in such a relatively small area leads to...well, a certain kind of pollution.  One must be very careful when crossing the streets to avoid stepping in this pollution and, you just can't get away from the smell.  Even the strong winds off Lake Huron have a hard time combating the odor!

Mackinac Island is a very beautiful place to visit, one of the most picturesque places one can visit. So if you're in the area and want to visit, pack your wallet and put on your old shoes!  Have fun!

The One-Road Road Trip Reviewed

The long-dreamed of exploration of US Highway 45 is now a thing of the past and now the examination has to be:  did it meet my expectations, was it worth it?

The expectations I set as a young boy were probably those of big city lights and big time excitement, those were not met, by my choice!   The expectations of a middle-aged man to whom taking pictures of a sunset is big time excitement, those expectations were met in spades.

The road that is now Highway 45 is not the same as it was "back in the day."  Through most of the route in Mississippi, Tennessee and Kentucky, the original road has been widen to at least 4 lanes and in many cases, routed around the small towns that dot the landscape.  On  a trip where the destination is the focus, that might be fine but on one that the purpose was the journey, it leaves a lot to be desired.

Four-lane highways mimic the interstates with their purpose to limit access and reduce the driving time of those using the path.  By-passed are the small towns with their general stores city halls and their festivals.  Those have been replaced with Dollar General stores on the out-skirts beside the super-gas station/convenience story/fast food restaurant.

What Highway 45 did provide was a view of agriculture on a scale I've never witnessed.  Northern Mississippi and southern Tennessee featured vast fields of cotton, showing its white bolls awaiting harvesting.  These gave way in northern Tennessee and into Kentucky to the soy beans fields that stretched on for miles, the field interrupted only by the groups of silos for storing the beans.

 Northern Kentucky and Illinois begins corn country which stretches into Wisconsin and Michigan.

Now, I thought I had seen corn fields but nothing I've ever seen in my life compares to the seemly endless fields of corn, the stalks so dense and tall that it seemed impenetrable.  But that's not the noticeable thing about these field.  To me the most interesting part is that there little land that wasn't covered with corn.  The corn grew up to the right-of-way of the road and up to the edge of the yard of the homesteads that were miles apart.  Even in entering the towns, the corn fields reluctantly gave way to the homes and businesses.  We spent a night in Mattoon,  Illinois.  The corn field ended at the edge of the hotel's parking lot and the shopping center next door.

Each farm house featured a large, traditional-shaped and colored barns surrounded by more modern metal structures and the ubiquitous silos.  It appeared the only variation between them was the shape of the home itself, the remaining structures virtual clones of the ones down the road.

The road in this part of the country is flat and straight, making 90 degree turns in the towns only to return to flat and straight.  Traffic mostly came in the form of farm implements moving from one field to another, their name or function I can only guess.

Many of the grain silos bore business names that indicate the corn was destined to be consumed as fuel in an automobile rather than roasted on the cob!

As we neared northern Illinois, we found mixed in with the centuries old farming the new trend in farming: wind farms.  Rising out of  the corn fields were the titan structures with their three-bladed wind mills to harness nature and provide electrical power to the region.

The view of Chicago from Highway 45 was a distant one.  45 skirts the Windy City passing through metro area on the south and west side.  The tall buildings of downtown can occasionally be seen from high points on hills or businesses.  O'Hare International Airport is bordered by 45 but on this trip highway construction kept the passage from being anywhere near enjoyable.

Leaving the Chicago metro area puts one right back into corn fields, this time in Wisconsin.  But the trees that were scarce in Illinois become much more common and close in state famous for its cheese., that is until you get to Milwaukee.  Highway 45 merges with an interstate for several miles.  Our arrival was poorly timed and we got to experience a Friday afternoon rush hour with its expected slowdown.

Our arrival in Wisconsin also coincided  with the arrival of a cold front that brought cold temperatures and a cold rain.  This wouldn't have been a problem except that our packing of clothes was based on a weather report or daily temperatures in the mid-50"s with overnight lows in the mid-40's.  turns out our daily high was 40!

The next day we rolled into Ontonagon Michigan and the end of Highway 45 (or as they claim, the beginning of the highway)! A quick selfie (usie) in the rain and then into Syl's Restaurant for a lo
cal treat, the pastie!  That's pronounced past-ee, we soon learned.  The pastie is ground beef and grounded pork, diced potatoes, rutabagas,  onions and carrots stuffed into a tart-like pastry and baked.  It is really very good. It is a treat the UP is renown for.

Although our vacation continued in the land of those who talk funny for several more days, this was the end of 45 was the intended goal and the stated purpose of the trip.  So this tale will end here.

But first, some other unexpected highlights of the trip:

Finding that Jackson Tennessee is the home of the famous railroad engineer Casey Jones.  His grave is here and although we found the cemetery, we couldn't get in as it was locked.  I should note that Jones baptism took place at a Catholic church in Whistler Alabama, less than one mile from Highway 45!

The first city one encounters in Illinois while traveling on this road, is Metropolis.  And what citizen is the most famous from Metropolis?  Why,it's the Man of Steel, Superman!  He is honored with a larger-than life statue at the courthouse.

In upper Wisconsin and into Michigan, we began to see broad stripe of some white-colored substance, crossing the highway every couple of miles or so.  My first impression was this was markings that allowed for aerial speed monitoring but they weren't at regular intervals.  After several miles we deduced that these are special surfaces to allow snowmobiles to cross the highway  without damaging the pavement!  Not something one sees very often in south Alabama!

We tried to pay particular attention to signs that announced we were entering a new town. We took pictures of the better ones to see which we could award our selection as the best sign of the trip.  While not the most attractive nor the best made, the one that generated perhaps the most interest was the welcome sign to Watersmeet, Michigan. The sign indicates that the town is the home to the Watersmeet High School Nimrods!  It has been my experience that calling someone a nimrod is not paying them a compliment!  A search of online dictionaries tells me that the word is actually a Biblical name meaning, in Hebrew, mighty hunter!  A wonderful mascot even if it does require a lot of explanation!

Another noteworthy observation of this trip, only one person made fun of my speech!

A journey of this sort is not the right trip for everyone to take.  If fact, I don't know if I'll ever undertake a similar trip, especially of this length but it was important for reasons previously mentioned to make this journey. There are some beautiful sights along the way, from the corn fields of Illinois to the backwoods of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.  So if you choose to try this trip, be sure and tell Superman I said hello and enjoy a pastie for me at the other end of the highway!

US Highway 45- A Young Boy's Gateway to the World

The beginning of US Hwy 45 in Mobile Alabama.

I was born and raised during the '50's and '60's in the small south-Alabama town of Citronelle, a sleepy place with a population at the time of about 2,000.

There are five roads that lead into and out of Citronelle:  Celeste Road that leads southeast to Saraland, a town only slightly larger than my hometown; Route 96, now know as the Coy Smith Highway that leads east to Mt. Vernon; Prine Road leading west to Leakesville Mississippi; Odom Road leading north to McIntosh.  Then there is US highway 45, leading south to the big city of Mobile.  It leads north also but more on that later.

When my family traveled one of those secondary roads it was usually for a Sunday afternoon visit to family or if we traveled to Leakesville, it was to see Dr. Faulk.  That meant someone was sick or it was time for a vaccination, neither of which was pleasant!

But trips south on 45 were a big deal!  It was usually to downtown Mobile where I would sit with my Daddy in Bienville Square, feeding peanuts to the pigeons and squirrels while Mama and my sisters shopped in Gayfer's or Kress'.  For a small child, that was big time excitement.

I also remember trips down 45 to take my older brother Joe to the airport.  He was in the Navy and would come home on leave.  I would go with Daddy to take him so he could fly to San Diego where he would board a ship and go to Japan, Hong Kong and other exotic far-eastern countries.

I remember trips both north and south with Mr. G, the coach of football and baseball for youth in our town.  We would load onto the back of his pick-up truck where he had benches made of wood so he could carry  the team to play.  Imagine 10 or 12 boys, aged 10 to 12 on the back of a truck for at 30-mile trip!  We would go to places like Alabama Village where they made fun of us because we played bare-footed. Today I wouldn't go into Alabama Village in an armored-personnel carrier but back in the day it was a big time experience!

In the summer, I would lie awake at night with the windows open and could hear the traffic on 45, the rumble of the big trucks carrying their cargo and the whine of the tires on cars as they passed through town.  I would wonder who they were, where were they going and for what purpose?  I know what was south but what was to the north?  I heard of places like Chicago, I studied about them in school and saw their ball teams playing on tv but I would never get to go there! I understood that 45 led to Chicago and Milwaukee but they were as alien as London or Paris.

But I always wanted to go.  Now, I'm going.

US Highway 45 begins at what is called Five Points,  near downtown Mobile, Alabama.  If runs north through seven states to its northern terminus in the city of Ontonagon, Michigan, on the shores of Lake Superior, some 1,300 miles later.

My wife, Mary (Alice) retires on September 30.  The next morning, we will load into our car, drive to Five Points and point the car north!  If all goes according to plan, four leisurely driving days later, we will take a selfie (with two people in the picture should that be a selfies?) on the shore of Lake Superior.  I will have fulfilled a goal held since about 1960.  One less item on the bucket list!

Along the way, there are  a lot of small towns and open country, at least as best I can tell from the Google maps but that's what I want to see.  I've been to Chicago and enjoyed the stays but now this boy from the small town wants to see the other small towns.

Watch for updates as we go!